Bow
Sight Selection Guide
Hunters Friend
BOW SIGHTS: Introduction
 A
bow sight is a device that's mounted on the riser of your bow
that helps you to aim your arrow. Much like the bead at the end
of a shotgun barrel, the bow sight simply helps tell you where
your projectile is pointed. Though it is possible to shoot your
bow without a sight (known as "instinctive shooting"), doing so
is exceedingly difficult - especially at longer ranges. As
such, virtually all modern compound bows are outfitted with some
kind of sight. Used in conjunction with a peep-sight or
kisser-button, even novice archers can be surprisingly accurate
with just a simple pin sight.
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BOW SIGHTS: Basic to Extreme
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Some bow sights are quite
simple, like the one on the left. This is an example of
a straightforward fiber-optic 3-pin composite (plastic)
sight, with a Lexan pin guard, and twin pin tracks.
Each pin can be positioned up or down in it's track for
elevation adjustments, and each pin can be screwed in
and out of the mounting bracket for windage
adjustments. This type of sight is very functional,
isn't too difficult to adjust, and would be sufficient
for most hunting and recreational applications. This
type of sight costs under $20 and easily installs with
just two allen head screws. |
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But as you might expect,
sights come in a variety of styles and levels of
sophistication. The second sight shown here is quite
different - a rather complex sight with many added
features. This machined aluminum and composite sight
offers gang-adjustments (all pins can be moved at once)
for windage and elevation, as well as adjustments for
each individual pin. This sight also incorporates more
fiber-optics, vertical pin technology, a subliminal
aiming ring, an anti-vibration device, camouflage
finish, graduated scales, "no-tools" cam adjusters, pin
lights, drilled and tapped quiver mount, and 3rd axis
(torque) adjustments. In short, this type of sight is
"loaded" with some premium features. Of course, these
premium features don't come cheap. This sight sells for
about $100. And there are plenty of models even more
advanced than this one. High-end competition sights can
cost as much as $200 or more. |
How Much Should I
Spend?
For a basic
hunting rig, it surely isn't necessary to get the most
deluxe sight on the market. But for rugged field use,
you might not want the most basic plastic model either.
A solid machined aluminum sight, with good fiber optics
and easy adjustability is all that most bowhunters need
in the field. In fact, most hunters select the popular
"mid-grade" sights that offer some of the premium
features - without going overboard. A $30-60 investment
will buy you a fine-quality hunting sight. Of course,
if you plan to participate in some 3D competitions, or
if your style of hunting requires a more specialized
sight design, you might want to consider a more deluxe
model. The choice is up to you. To help you make a
better-informed choice, we've broken down the major
sight types, features, and popular options here in our
Sight Selection Guide. We hope you find the information
useful. |
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MAJOR SIGHT TYPES |
Fixed-Pin Sights
 A
fixed-pin sight is the most common type of sight, and the
popular choice of hunters. A fixed-pin sight usually has 3 to 5
individual pins, which can each be set for a particular known
distance. The top pin is for the closest distance, the lower
pins are for longer distances. Once set, the pins are tightened
and remain “fixed” in position during use. Setting up and
adjusting a fixed-pin sight is pretty simple, but it does
require some trial and error testing. And for those shooters who
take their time, and set each pin just right, the fixed-pin
sight yields excellent results - as they’re very reliable and
easy-to-use in the field.
Most hunters set their fixed-pins for easy-to-remember
distances, usually in 5 or 10 yard increments. Once the pins are
set, shooting known distances is a snap. If your target is 30
yards away, you simply sight the bow by placing your pre-set
30-yard pin on the intended target - then shoot. The sight does
all the compensation for the change in the arrow‘s trajectory.
But the tricky part comes when shooting unknown distances, as
you must be able estimate the actual distance to the target, and
choose the best pin for that distance. Mastering the skill of
yardage estimation isn’t so easy, especially when shooting from
an elevated position, over uneven ground, or through dense
foliage. But it’s a skill every bowhunter needs.
If you set your pins for 20, 30, & 40 yards (common setup),
there’s no guarantee your game animal will be courteous enough
to stand precisely at one of your preset distances. So in
addition to accurately estimating yardages, a fixed-pin shooter
must learn to compensate as necessary for intermediate distances
for which no pin is set. If your target is 25 yards away, your
20 yard pin will shoot a bit too high - your 30 yard pin too
low. So most fixed-pin shooters must learn to split the
difference and hold somewhere between the pins, known as
“gap-shooting”.
 
Of
course, some shooters don’t like to “gap-shoot”, and prefer to
simply add more pins. More pins in a sight means you can set the
pins for smaller yardage increments within your bowhunting
range. For example, if you have six pins set for 15, 20, 25, 30,
35, & 40 yards, chances are you’ll have a pin that’s set for the
distance you need - at least in most hunting situations.
However, there is a downside to this strategy. First, you’ll
have to remember the distances all those pins are set for -
which might not be so easy when you’re tired, cold, hungry, and
staring down at a trophy buck. But more importantly, excessive
pins in your sight means that more of your target is obscured
behind the pins, which can make shot placement more difficult,
especially for fast bows with tight pin-gaps.
At the other extreme, some shooters actually prefer a simple
single-pin strategy for hunting. If for example, a single pin is
set for 25 yards, you can learn to “hold high” for distances
beyond 25 yards, and to “hold low” for distances inside of 25
yards. With a little practice, this method too can be quite
effective - especially when shooting a fast bow. It takes some
experimentation to learn the right amount of compensation, but
if you learn that your 25 yard pin lands 6” low when shooting at
35 yards, you can compensate by simply holding the pin 6” high
on the target. If the pin lands 3” high at 15 yards, you can
compensate by holding the pin 3” low, and so on. Again, this
method takes some practice and good estimating skills. So it
isn’t for everyone either.
Fortunately, most fixed-pin sights allow the easy removal or
addition of pins. So if you want to try your luck with the
single pin technique, the standard 3-pin “gap-shooters” setup,
or even if you want a whole gaggle of pins, a fixed-pin sight
will give you some options. Whether you choose a simple $20
model or a fancy $100 model loaded with extras, the fixed-pin
sight is an excellent choice for both hunting and recreational
archery. We recommend this type of sight for most applications.
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Moveable-Pin Sights
 A
moveable pin sight is a little different. Rather than have
multiple preset pins, a moveable pin sight usually has a single
pin, which is adjusted before each shot. The moveable pin sight
has a system of brackets, levers, or worm gears that smoothly
slide the entire sight housing up and down, so the pin can be
adjusted for any distance in just a few seconds. At the rear of
the sight bracket, a small adjustable pointer indicates the
yardage along a graduated scale or a series of handmade marks on
white tape. Each mark represents a known yardage. So if you
come upon a target which is 30 yards away, you simply move the
pointer to the 30 yard mark and shoot. Unlike the fixed-pin
sight with individual pins set for specific distances, the
moveable pin sight can be adjusted to any distance just by
moving the pointer. The user can have as many references
(yardage marks) as he or she wishes. In fact, providing you had
enough patience and a sharp enough pencil, you could make a mark
for every yard.
Realistically, most moveable pin shooters make their yardage
marks in typical 5 or 10 yard increments, then use some system
of compensation for intermediate yardages - much like a
fixed-pin shooter. A typical moveable pin sight might be setup
with marks for every 5 yards. So if your target is 27 yards
away, you must adjust your pointer so that it is between the 25
and 30 yard marks. This system is actually quite accurate, as
it allows yardages to be carefully adjusted on a scale, before
the bow is ever drawn back. As such, moveable pin shooters
often have an advantage over fixed-pin shooters. In fact, the
IBO and ASA have separate competition classes for shooters using
fixed-pin vs. moveable pin sights.
So is the the moveable pin sight better? In some ways yes. But
as you might expect, every rose has it's thorn. If you're
shooting at unknown distances, your success with a moveable pin
sight will still depend on good yardage estimation. And while
the moveable pin sight is great for general target shooting and
competition, it isn't nearly as popular for hunting. Many
hunters don't like the idea of having to reach out and adjust
their sight before each shot. In a hunting situation, there may
not be enough time to adjust the sight, and the added step also
provides another opportunity for game to detect your movements.
You'll also find that the moving parts on a moveable pin sight
often interfere with standard quiver mounting. But with all
that said, there are many hunters who use the moveable pin sight
very successfully - and many target shooters swear by them.
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Pendulum Sights (aka, Treestand
Sights)
 A
pendulum sight is still another approach. A pendulum sight is
primarily designed for treestand hunters, as it helps to
compensate for elevation on downhill shots. Treestand hunters
have always struggled to accurately judge yardage from an
elevated position. To make matters worse, an arrow that is
fired downhill gets a little help from gravity and tends to land
too high - especially at steep downward angles. The pendulum
sight promises to alleviate these struggles. The pendulum, or
treestand sight, usually has a single pin which is mounted on a
hinged pendulum swing. As the bow is tipped forward (shooting
downhill), the sight pin swings out and up, automatically
compensating for your downward shot angle. The steeper your
shot angle, the more the sight compensates for you. It's a
fantastic idea, and many treestand hunters use the pendulum
sight with great success. However, the pendulum sight isn't for
everyone or every situation either.
Most pendulum sight manufacturers make elaborate claims about
the accuracy of their sighting systems. Most pendulum sights
are advertised to be accurate from 0-30 yards (within a typical
bowhunter's range). Of course, the term "accurate" is used a
little loosely here. Bowhunting accuracy (just hitting within
the vitals area of a game animal) and absolute accuracy are
different things. For a pendulum sight to be absolutely
accurate within a specific yardage range, the sight must be
calibrated for a exact arrow velocity and the shooter must be
elevated to a specific height. And even then - there are some
variables for which the pendulum sight cannot totally
compensate. So your actual accuracy with a pendulum sight will
likely be more "relative" than absolute. And it's worth noting
that the pendulum sight is particularly ineffective for longer
range shots and/or when shooting from the ground. In fact, some
pendulum sights even have secondary fixed-pins installed just to
allow better accuracy at longer distances.
But let's give credit where it's due. When it comes to
compensating for downhill angles on short-range treestand shots,
the pendulum sight offers a respectable advantage over the
standard pin sight and the "best guess" method. If you're
exclusively a treestand hunter, and most of your shots are taken
at relatively close-range, the pendulum sight may be ideal for
you. Just realize that no sighting system is totally foolproof,
in spite of any exaggerated advertising claims to the contrary.
Your best chance for making that critical shot will still rely
on good shooting technique and the application of some common
sense.
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3D Competition Sights (Target
Sights)
 A
3D Competition Sight, often called a Target Sight, is a
specialty sight which is designed for use in competition. Due
to the size, cost, and complexity of these sights, they are
rarely used for hunting - but they are arguably the most
accurate sights available. A 3D Competition Sight is
essentially a fancy Moveable Pin Sight with a sophisticated
system of windage and elevation click-adjustments. Target
sights are larger too, usually mounting 6-12" forward of the
bow's riser via a quick-disconnect dovetail system.
Target Sights usually have an 10/32" threaded receiver which
will accept a variety of aiming points (single pin, a
scope-style sight, laser sight, etc.) which are all sold
separately. Once accessorized and properly setup, this type of
sight is amazingly accurate. But obviously, this sight isn't
for everyone either.
It's common for a serious competition shooter to have well over
$400 invested in their Target Sighting system. A good quality
Target Sight can easily cost $200 or more. Then adding a
quality scope and magnifying lens can quickly tack another
$100-200 to the cost of the base unit. These advanced sighting
systems are very well designed and are manufactured to the most
exacting tolerances. But their usefulness is limited to
applications where this type of precision is necessary.
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Fixed-Plate and Dovetail
Mounts:
 Most
sights are the fixed-plate design, meaning that the sight
bracket is attached directly to the bow. A fixed-plate sight is
generally mounted on the bow with two allen screws and the
entire bracket and sight remain on the bow at all times. A
dovetail mount is a little different. A dovetail sight works by
mounting a separate small retainer bracket to the bow, which has
a dovetail groove machined into it. The sight is fitted onto a
separate extension bracket which is machined to fit the dovetail
groove. To put the sight onto the bow, you slide the extension
bracket into the retainer bracket and tighten some type of
retaining nut (usually a large thumb screw). So the dovetail
mounted sight comes on and off the bow very easily. The
fixed-plate sight does not.
As a general rule, hunters prefer the simplicity and reliability
of the fixed-plate design. And it stands to reason, as there's
typically no need to repeatedly take a sight on and off of a
hunting bow. However, 3D and competition shooters often prefer
the dovetail mount. A dovetail mount will allow the use of
multiple sights - presuming they all share the same brackets. A
serious competition shooter may use more than one sight
(different sized pins, different magnifications, a back-up
sight, etc.) and the dovetail mount makes changing the sights a
snap. Also, dovetail sights tend to be longer - positioning the
pins further away from the shooter for increased accuracy in
competition. Of course, a bow outfitted with an extra-long
sight generally doesn't fit into a standard bow case - so the
sight must be removed after each use before the bow can be put
away. In that respect, a dovetail mount is a very handy feature
for long competition sights.
There isn't a right or wrong here. Certainly you could hunt
with a long competition-style sight. But again, most hunters
stick to the simple fixed-plates which present fewer things to
go wrong. We should also note that if you intend to use a
dovetail sight for hunting, you'll may have trouble installing a
bow-mounted quiver. Most popular quivers attach the bow at the
sight bracket. And in many cases, a dovetail mount thumb screw
can interfere with the mounting of the quiver - usually
requiring a spacer kit to make it all fit together properly.
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MAJOR SIGHT
FEATURES |
Fiber Optics
 Fiber
optic technology is primarily designed to carry digital
information over long distances. But the hunting and shooting
industry has found another use for this remarkable product. At
the core of a fiber optic cable is a strand of optically pure
glass or plastic. Surrounding the optical glass is a special
coating called the cladding, which reflects the light back into
the core. So when the translucent cable is exposed to sunlight
(or any other light source), light gets effectively "trapped" in
the core of the cable. At the end of the cable, where the core
is exposed, the light is able to escape. This creates a
wonderful phenomenon that makes the tip of the cable appear to
light-up - as if powered by a battery. And the longer the
fiber-optic cable, the more light it can gather and the brighter
the tip becomes.
In the hunting and shooting industries, these fiber optics
cables have been put to use - not for data transmission - but as
a sighting device. The small bright tip of a fiber optic cable
makes an excellent aiming point on a bow or gun sight. Even in
low light dusk & dawn conditions, the tip of the fiber optic
cable still stands out clearly - allowing the shooter to aim and
fire his weapon. Most of today's hunting sights are outfitted
with some kind of fiber-optics pins.
 Most
fiber optic sight pins have between 1/2" and 2" of fiber optic
cable, usually situated behind the pin or wrapped around the
base of sight pin. And this seems to be enough to provide an
adequate increase in pin visibility. But a few manufacturers
take the concept to the extreme - designing sights to
specifically incorporate huge amounts of fiber-optic cable. The
sight on the left uses 24" long fiber optic cable coils for each
pin. This produces a remarkably bright pin that practically
glows in the dark. But before you choose this type of sight, be
warned that you can have too much of a good thing. It may be
possible for a pin to be too bright. Ultra-bright pins
can often create a halo or starburst effect that can be very
distracting - akin to looking into a bright light. As such, we
recommend you choose pins that have a reasonable amount fiber
optics.
Sight
pins come in a variety of sizes; the most common are the .019",
.029", and .040" pins. The smallest pins are the micro-fine
.019" pins, available as an option on many of today's popular
sights. These tiny pins allow for very fine shot placement with
minimal loss of sight picture. However, tiny pins can be
difficult to see in some conditions, and they don't shine as
brightly as the larger .029" and .040" pins. Large .040" pins
offer a brighter and more distinct aiming point, but they cover
more of the target in the sight picture - which is especially
noticeable when taking shots at longer distances. Again,
another trade-off to consider. So as you might expect,
bowhunters want the best of both worlds, so the moderately fine
.029" pins are the most popular choice today.
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Bubble Levels
 Many
of today's mid to high grade sights now feature an integrated
bubble level. This feature helps you keep your bow perfectly
upright when shooting. Unlike recurve shooters, who'll often
deliberately shoot with a canted (tilted) bow, compound shooters
typically want their bows to be perfectly upright when fired.
If you cant your bow to the right, your shots will land a little
right. If you cant your bow to the left, your shots will land
slightly left. In short, canting the bow degrades your
horizontal accuracy. And MANY shooters cant their bows without
ever realizing it. So the bubble level helps to add an element
of consistency into your shooting routine. The only downside is
that aligning the bubble level adds an extra step to your aiming
process. But with practice, using the bubble level eventually
becomes second-nature. And you'll be happy to know that they
don't freeze in cold weather....they're usually filled with
alcohol or chloroform.
Bubble Levels for Left-Handers: Some sights are not made
as RH or LH specific models. Some sights are intended to be
universal for both RH and LH use. in this case, all sight
functions generally remain the same regardless of whether the
sight is mounted as a RH or a LH model. However, if this kind
of sight comes with a bubble level, the bubble level will appear
at the top of the sight for left-hand users. But not to worry,
a straight bubble level will perform just as well at the top of
the sight aperture as it will at the bottom. But please note
that a few bubble levels are cambered (curved) and cannot be
used upside-down. If the sight you like does not come in a LH
specific model, make sure it does not use a cambered level.
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Gang Adjustments
 A
gang adjustment is a feature on a sight that allows you to move
all the pins simultaneously. Gang adjustments can be for
elevation (height) or for windage (right & left settings). The
sight on the left features both gang-elevation and gang-windage
adjustments - meaning that all the pins can be adjusted up or
down or side to side together. By loosening only one screw and
sliding the dovetail bar up or down in the groove, the entire
sight housing and all the pins can be raised or lowered.
Similarly, a separate fastener allows the entire sight housing
and all the pins to be moved horizontally. Not only do these
features make the initial setup and sighting-in easier, but
these features give the sight greater range of possible
settings.
We suggest you look for sights that incorporate these features.
Sights without gang adjustments are generally more difficult to
adjust and setup, as each pin has to be individually adjusted
for both windage and elevation. Fortunately, the majority of
today's machined sights feature the easy gang-adjustments.
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Micro Adjust Windage &
Elevation
 Generally,
gang adjustments are made by loosening a screw and then sliding
the sight housing to a new position. But some sights are
designed with a micro-adjust feature which allows gang windage
and elevation adjustments to be made by turning an adjustment
knob (usually attached to a simple gear that drives the motion
of the housing). So instead of sliding the sight housing, you
simply turn the knob or screw - and the sight housing slowly
creeps to it's new position. Micro Adjust sights are very
precise and easy to work with, but they are typically quite
expensive. If your budget permits, a micro adjust sight is
certainly a nice piece of equipment. But this is a luxury
feature that isn't really essential to a good hunting sight.
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Zero Pin Gap
(Near Zero That Is)
 As
compound bows have gotten faster and faster, the space between
our pins (pin gaps) seem to get tighter and tighter. For
example, a bow that's shooting 300+ fps may have 20 & 30 yard
pins that are virtually right on top of one another. To
accommodate faster bows, many manufacturers are designing sights
so the pins can be spaced very close together. This is usually
accomplished by using multiple pin-tracks and/or angled pins
such that one pin can be literally set on the edge of another.
Sights designed with this feature are said to have "zero pin
gap" capability.
With a little marketing magic, "zero pin gap" has become a
buzz-phrase in the industry. And as you might imagine, some
sight manufacturers interpret the word "zero" a little
differently than others. We find that better than half of the
"zero pin gap" sights on the market can't actually be set for
absolutely zero pin gap - but they get close. Even the 3-track
sight pictured here cannot be set so that all three pins are
actually touching. But it's so close - we'll spot them the
ten-thousands of an inch.
The point is.....if you shoot a zippy bow, you may need to
consider a "zero pin gap" sight that will allow you to set your
pins very close together. Especially if you plan to set your
pins within a tight bowhunting range, say 10 -20 -30 yards, a
zero pin gap sight will be a must. If your bow isn't such a
speed demon, a standard single-track pin sight will work just
fine.
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2nd & 3rd Axis Adjustments
Some sights feature 2nd and 3rd axis adjustments options.
Admittedly, these features probably aren't necessary for a
general purpose hunting rig. But for us hardcore enthusiasts
and pathological tinkerers, these advanced adjustments are handy
innovations. 2nd & 3rd Axis adjustments essentially ensure that
your sight's bubble level is always telling you the truth.
 The
2nd Axis adjustment essentially deals with
"leveling the level" on a sight. If a sight has a built-in
level, and the sight is machined perfectly square, and the bow's
riser is similarly perfectly square, the level should read a
perfect zero-bubble when the bow is held upright at 0º. It's an
easy thing to check if you have a carpenter's level. Just hold
the carpenter's level along the side of the bow and stand it
upright. If both the sight level and the carpenter's level come
to zero-bubble at the same place, the sight's 2nd Axis is
correct.
Naturally, you would think that all sights and bow risers
are machined to be square. So you should be able to just bolt
your sight in place and everything should line-up perfectly,
right? Well...not necessarily. A sight's bubble level is
usually installed in the outer pin guard, which is typically
round or trapezoidal in shape. So getting the bubble level
mounted in just the right place can be tricky business. It's
not unusual to see a bubble level that's off a degree or two.
And the fussy archer can spend many hours trying to shim and
correct a 2nd Axis problem.
Fortunately, some sights come with an adjustment that allows you
to "set" the level with just the turn of an allen wrench. A
sight with 2nd Axis adjustments allows you to adjust the
position of the entire sight housing - relative to the bow's
riser, so that your sight's level correctly indicates when the
bow is perfectly upright. This isn't a complex feature to
incorporate into a sight. Nonetheless, 2nd-Axis adjustments are
typically available only on the more expensive sight models.
With all that said, obsessing over the issue of 2nd Axis is
largely unnecessary. The whole point of using a bubble level is
to keep you from canting (tilting/leaning) the bow when you
shoot it. But most people can't hold their bows up perfectly
upright at 0º, even with a bubble level. Everyone bobbles a
little while aiming - so we're all bound to be off a degree or
two from shot to shot. The bubble level just helps us to get it
reasonably close. As such, fussing over a perfect 2nd Axis
setting is probably inconsequential to overall accuracy for most
bowhunters. But if you enjoy the technical hair-splitting, the
2nd Axis adjustment sight might be perfect for you!
 The
3rd Axis adjustment is a little different. A
sight with 3rd-Axis adjustments can be adjusted so that the
entire sight housing can swivel inward (to a position less than
square) or outward (to a position beyond square). At first
glance it would seem that setting the sight for a perfect 90º
would be best (center sight in photo). But that isn't always
the case. Most shooters hold their bow with some degree of
hand-torque (slightly twisting the bow's riser to the left or
right). The 3rd Axis adjustment helps to compensate for that.
And since everyone shoots a little differently, a proper 3rd
Axis setting is actually unique for each individual shooter.
For some, dead square is still correct. For others, it's not.
Getting your 3rd Axis right essentially means getting the plane
of the sight to be perpendicular to the path of your arrow. But
due to individual shooting form variations, 3rd Axis leveling
cannot be done on a vice or jig. It must be done at full draw.
It's also worth noting that some bow risers can flex
considerably at full draw - also degrading 3rd Axis alignment.
So again, a 3rd Axis adjustment is best made with the bow at
full draw. If you select a sight with 3rd Axis adjustments,
contact the manufacturer for the specific setup procedure for
your 3rd Axis settings.
So why does a 3rd Axis adjustment matter? On level ground, it
really doesn't. But an improperly set 3rd Axis can cause your
level to give an inaccurate reading when shooting uphill or
downhill. This can result in you executing your shot with a
significantly canted bow - and missing your mark to the left or
right. Again, this is an advanced feature for which the
benefits may not justify the added expense and setup time. But
if you're serious about getting most from a bubble-level sight,
3rd Axis adjustment might be an important feature to consider
when choosing a new sight. |
 Machined
Aluminum or Plastic?
Most of today's quality hunting sights are made from machined
aluminum (aluminum alloys actually). Aluminum is an ideal
material for this application, as it is lightweight, it doesn't
rust, and it is readily available. With thoughtful engineering
and the aid of CNC (Computer Numeric Control) machining
technology, sight manufacturers can create very precise and
intricate aluminum sight designs. Of course, CNC machining
isn't exactly cheap. You can expect to pay $50 or more for a
sight that has all machined aluminum parts.
That's why it is common to see sights that have some
machined parts and some plastic parts. Many of today's popular
sights feature a machined aluminum mounting bracket and frame,
with a plastic pin guard. And this isn't to suggest that
plastic is bad. Some plastic parts are actually quite durable.
But good or bad, the buying public largely regards plastic
products as cheap or low-quality.
 As
such, archery manufacturers deliberately avoid using the word
"plastic" in their advertisements. Instead, they cleverly use
code words like composite, acrylic, poly,
and lexan. But in the end, they all mean
the same thing....plastic. So if you wish to avoid plastic
parts on your new sight, watch for the code words.
And while we're on the subject of clever codes, don't get too
excited by ads that brag about using Aircraft Grade
6061-T6 Aluminum. It's nothing special. 6061 is the
most common and least expensive of the heat treatable aluminum
alloys. There are literally thousands of products that
incorporate 6061-T6.
With all that said, we recommend you choose a good-quality
machined sight with a minimum of plastic components. In the
long run, it will be well worth the extra money spent.
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Sight Lights & Radioactive Pins
 Some
sights are designed to use a secondary light source to
illuminate the pins - either via battery power or chemical light
sticks. Some sights come with this feature already incorporated
into the sight, but most manufacturers offer a sight light as an
added accessory. The price of a sight light varies from brand
to brand, but most cost about $20 or so.
Optional sight lights frequently mount into a pre-drilled
opening (like in the photo at left) in the sight's outer
housing. But it's done a variety of ways - from one brand to
the next. The sight light either shines directly on the sight
pins, or on the fiber-optic elements of the pins, causing the
pins to be visible even in total darkness. Of course, with this
type of light, the user must turn the light on and off as needed
- as they are typically powered by a small watch battery.
A few manufacturers take a more unique approach, infusing their
sight pins with small amounts of radioactive tritium or
phosphorescent powder. Tritium pins glow softly for up to 10
years without the need for batteries. Phosphorescent pins
aren't radioactive, but work much like a "glow-in-the-dark"
novelty item. The pins absorb ambient light and then slowly
remit the light after the light source is removed. So
theoretically, a phosphorescent pin will remain visible for a
brief period of time after dark.
All of these devices may indeed extend your hunting hours and
pin visibility during dawn and dusk conditions. But a lighted
pin is not a "night vision" system; it will not increase your
visibility through the peep sight or illuminate your target. So
even though you may be able to see your pins, you still may not
be able to execute an ethical shot. And in spite of how it may
seem, lighted bow-sighting devices are not intended to
facilitate hunting big game in the dark - which is generally
illegal in every state. As such, we strongly recommend you NOT
choose a lighted sight with this purpose in-mind. Always follow
your state's rules and regulations regarding legal hunting
hours, and never shoot when your visibility is impaired by poor
lighting conditions. |
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